2020. 2. 18. 01:50ㆍ카테고리 없음
Before starting, cover the floor with plastic drop cloths and fasten the cloths in place using painter’s tape. This will protect the floor from any spilled or splattered plaster or joint compound and make clean up a bit easier, as much of the dust from sanding will collect on the drop cloths. Close off the room using plastic sheeting and painter’s tape and cover vents to keep sanding dust from travelling through your HVAC system. Helpful Tip A shop vacuum is a great tool for cleaning up sanding dust.
Smooth and remove loose plaster pieces and any jagged edges on the surface around the crack with a putty knife. Use a cloth or rag to wipe away dust and debris. Dampen the area with a spray bottle and water.
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to mix dry plaster with water in a large bucket. Pour the plaster from the bucket into a mud pan. Apply a layer of plaster to the crack with a 4” wallboard knife, making sure the layer is even with the rest of the wall. Crack repairs usually need only one layer of plaster.
Allow the area to dry for 24 hours. Safety Alert! When plastering, wear safety goggles, a long sleeve shirt and cotton work gloves for eye and skin protection.
Wear a sanding respirator to prevent inhalation while breaking dried plaster or when mixing. Helpful Tips Excess moisture in the wall or room can affect the plastering, so make sure to fix any leaks or causes of moisture several weeks before plastering. The best temperature for plastering is between 55 degrees and 70 degrees. Keep the room at this temperature at least 24 hours before plastering to ensure the walls are completely dry. The room must stay at this temperature during plastering and until the plaster has completely set. You can also use spackle and a joint compound to patch cracks. For the smallest cracks, you can use spackle.
Apply small amounts with a 2” putty knife until the crack is covered. Let the spackle dry for the amount of time specified by the manufacturer. Sand it smooth. For larger cracks, you can use a joint compound. First, apply a strip of self-adhesive fiberglass wallboard tape across the entire length of the crack. This will help keep the crack from growing.
Apply the joint compound with a 4” wallboard knife over the tape until it is completely covered. Feather your coverage about 3” all around the taped area so that it will blend in with the rest of the wall. Allow it to dry and then sand it smooth with fine-grit sandpaper. Apply a second coat of joint compound and feather this layer out 6” to 12” from the repaired area to help it blend in further. Allow it to dry again before proceeding. Safety Alert!
Fixing Cracks In Solid Plaster Walls
Wear safety goggles and a dust mask or respirator if you will be sanding a large repair area. Apply the joint compound with a 10” wallboard knife after the second layer is dry. As you would with a wall crack, feather coverage about 3” around the repair area so it will blend in with the rest of the wall. Let it dry and then sand it smooth with fine-grit sandpaper. Apply a second coat of joint compound and feather this layer out 6” to 12” from the repaired area to help it blend in further.
This final layer must be applied very thin to blend with the wall and must dry for 24 hours. Once completely dry, wipe the area with a damp sponge and sand until it is smooth with fine-grit sandpaper. Now you can prime and paint. Here’s what you’ll need to complete this project successfully.
Before you begin, use the shopping list below to uncheck the tools you already have to complete this project. Then, print or save your updated list and bring it to your, where an expert Hardwarian will give you the remaining tools and expert advice you need to complete this project. You can also for these project items at TrueValue.com and receive FREE shipping to a participating store. Fix Cracks. Spray bottle. Dry plaster.
Long-sleeved shirt. Repair Holes. Spray bottle. Repair Lath.
Metal lath. Piece of wire. Wooden dowel.
You just gotta love plaster. That rock-hard substance, which was applied to the walls and ceilings of nearly every house in this country until the 1950s, gives us surfaces that are seamless, mold resistant, fire resistant, and noise deadening. But what to do when plaster cracks, buckles, and pops loose? It's a perplexing question for many of our readers, including Tim Thorp, whose house in Providence, Rhode Island, is filled with badly blemished plaster.
'How do I patch 100 years of gouges, cracks, and screw holes so the walls look flat and clean when painted?' He asks us in an e-mail. Here, Tom shows how sticking old walls back together can make them look as good as new. The key to any fix is to reunite the plaster with the strips of wood lath underneath. Otherwise the cracks come back, no matter how many times you patch over them. That's why This Old House general contractor Tom Silva usually reattaches lath with screws and metal washers before attempting a repair. Recently, though, he tried, a homeowner-friendly adhesive that uses glue instead of screws.
While it costs more than the screw-and-washer method—a six-tube kit runs $120, versus $20 for 120 metal washers—the final finishing is easier and looks better because there aren't any washers to cover. Plus, a glued bond lasts longer than a screwed connection.
The key to any fix is to reunite the plaster with the strips of wood lath underneath. Otherwise the cracks come back, no matter how many times you patch over them. That's why This Old House general contractor Tom Silva usually reattaches lath with screws and metal washers before attempting a repair. Recently, though, he tried, a homeowner-friendly adhesive that uses glue instead of screws. While it costs more than the screw-and-washer method—a six-tube kit runs $120, versus $20 for 120 metal washers—the final finishing is easier and looks better because there aren't any washers to cover. Plus, a glued bond lasts longer than a screwed connection.
Using a 3/16-inch masonry bit, drill a hole in the plaster about 2 inches from the crack. When you hit lath, stop—the bit won't go through wood—pull out the bit, and drill another hole about 3 inches from the first and about 2 inches from the crack.
Try to hit a strip of lath with every hole you drill. (If you miss, the bit will sink in right to the chuck. Mark such holes with a pencil as a reminder not to inject them with primer or adhesive in the next steps; try drilling again about half an inch up or down.) Continue until there is a series of holes about 4 inches apart on both sides of the crack. Vacuum the plaster crumbs out of all the holes.